by Averill Shepps
26 East King Street, Lancaster Phone: 717-690-2354
When you open the door to Barberet, you enter the pastry shop which showcases the desserts you can have after dinner or take home, that is if you can ever decide from the gorgeous array of color, shape, and decorative effects! Owner Cedric Barbaret says it is “like a jewelry store for his creations.” After tearing yourself away from the bakery area, you pass into the restaurant, which describes itself as having “French casual comfort food with a modern twist.”
The appetizers are different from what you would encounter in most Central Pennsylvania restaurants. They include Sumon Fumé, and Beef Tartare with a Quail Egg. The three of us decided to share the Quenelle De Brochet, which included Gruyère and Saucisson cuit de Lyon with Black Truffle, Pearl Onions and Potatoes.
The Plats Principal, like the appetizers, are upscale. They include Poulet Basquaise and Duo of Lamb. Two of our party selected the Veal Schnitzel with a lemon-caper-parsley beurre blanc, arugula salad and shaved parmesan. The veal was pounded very thin so that it resembled a small pizza on the plate. It was lightly seasoned with the cheese and herbs so that the flavor of the veal was not lost, as it often is in other restaurants. I had the Braised Beef short ribs which were paired with Ancho Chili, Gnudi, and Roasted Corn Relish. The Braised Beef was so tender you only had to use a fork to cut the beef and, with the other accompaniments, made this an outstanding dish that I would order again.
Barberet’s wine list is small but it appears to be able to accommodate the menu items. Barberet also has a prix fixe menu for $35.00 that includes a choice of an appetizer, an entree and a dessert. If you have to park in the parking garage the price is five dollars for three hours.
Barberet lives up to its press clippings, and we know we will be going back.