by Marty Cook

You may ask, “Why decant a wine?” and “Does decanting improve a wine?”

According to Wine Enthusiast, “There are two main reasons for decanting wine. The first is physical—to separate clarified wine from solids that have formed during aging. The second is that decanting accelerates the breathing process, which increases the wine’s aromas from natural fruit and oak, by allowing a few volatile substances to evaporate. Decanting also softens the taste of the tannins that cause harshness and astringency in young wines.”

Most red wines benefit from decanting, including less expensive wines to improve their flavor. All it takes is a suitable decanter, a bit of pre-planning, and some patience. In the remainder of this article, we will focus on decanting red wines.

Decanting times for red wines can range from approximately 30 minutes to more than 3 hours, depending on the grape variety and age of the wine. A list of decanting times for different types of red wines is shown below; and, since every bottle of wine is somewhat unique, check your wine periodically as you decant to determine if it meets your individual taste requirements. When the wine reaches a point where you find it rather pleasant, then it is time to drink it!

Most of us drink red wines that are five years old or less; so, the following rules-of-thumb apply to approximate timeframes when decanting most red wines.

Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot: 2 hours
Dão and Douro Reds: 2 – 3 hours
Grenache/Garnacha Blends: 1 hour
Malbec: 1 hour
Mourvèdre/Monastrell: 2 – 3 hours
Nebbiolo: 3+ hours
Petite Sirah: 2 hours
Pinot Noir: 30 minutes
Sangiovese: 2 hours
Syrah/Shiraz: 2 – 3 hours
Tempranillo: 2 hours
L V Port & Madeira: 2 hours
Zinfandel: 30 minutes

In the case of red wines with very high levels of tannin, consider decanting for more than three hours. Younger wines or wines with more astringency (tannin) will require a longer time for decanting. But, again, it is important to taste as you decant and avoid decanting a wine for too long. Keep in mind that there are limits to how much a wine will improve and decanting is a non-reversable process. Also, after a red wine is decanted, it has a limit to the length of time that it will remain palatable (generally 12 hours at best).

For best results with an old red wine in the 15 – 20 year range, it is advisable to decant immediately before serving, tasting as you go. And, avoid using wine aerators with old(er) wines.

by Marty Cook

One of the many wine-related organizations to which I belong does something that has become a regular feature in their bi-weekly meetings. They call this fun segment “Archeological Find”. Someone invariably comes across a bottle of wine of dubious age and integrity. Perhaps it was a bottle lurking in the shadows of their wine cellar, or maybe they inherited some long-forgotten bottle of wine in an estate settlement. Suffice it to say that the bottle is enshrouded in an air of speculation and curiosity over how the wine may have held up during its longer-than-anticipated slumber. They discuss what facts there are that may be known about the bottle, and then they carefully open the bottle and pour samples for any who wish (or, dare!) to taste the ancient find. Some of these finds are beyond recognition as a wine and more akin to salad dressing, while others are “meh”; but, there are also those discoveries that thrill and amaze!

I am sure that this has happened to most of us at least once. During the pandemic shutdown of this past March, many of us were busy drinking our wine cellars. I am willing to bet that more than a few rogue bottles of wine bubbled to the surface. Bottles that had once been laid down with the best of intentions and then forgotten in an accumulation of time and dust. Enter the essence of “Archeological Find”! Although we might not (yet) be able to gather as a group to hear and see the story and taste with trepidation, we can nonetheless share the episodic experience of our “mystery wine” discovery with a written and photographic account of that find and its sensory assessment.

So, get in touch with your inner Indiana Jones and do a little digging! Then, relate your story to us. How or where did you discover (or, re-discover) your Archeological Find, what was it that you found, and how well the wine held up! You can share your Archeological Find with us for reprint in an upcoming eNewsletter by sending the story and supporting photos to Dr-Jones@pawinesociety.com Happy hunting!

by Dave Williams

If there is one wine that gets more scrutiny than others, it must be Champagne, if for no other reason than reverence and cost. And with science now catching up to what history has shown, once again another finding of minutia to ponder when consuming your bubbles. In a recent 5 year study science has shown a benefit to cork during tirage (champagne’s in bottle second fermentation) in comparison to lesser expensive crown caps which are plastic coated metal caps similar to conventional beer bottle caps.

The study was performed by Amorim, a Portuguese cork producer which included sparkling wines from across the globe, not just champagne. Three properties were assessed: 1) retention of CO2, 2) oxygen kinetics and 3) volatile components. The study found measurable differences of volatile components and oxygen kinetics. While cork had similar CO2 values with crown caps, it showed greater preservation of volatile components like esters which we can sense in the nose and taste.

However, it was differences in oxygen kinetics that the study highlighted. It was explained that there is a balance between oxygen and reduction. During tirage there is a breakdown of components such as dead yeast cells, which consumes some of the dissolved oxygen in the wine making the second fermentation reductive (reducing oxygen). This can lead to unpleasant Sulphur-like aromas. It was shown that the small amount of air trapped in the micro pores of cork were injected into the bottle when it was compressed for insertion adding 2-2.5mg of oxygen per bottle. This small amount of O2 helped reduce the oxygen consumption during tirage creating a better balance. On a scale of 1-10 most winemakers preferred a balance of 3-4. Crown caps had an average measurement of 2.5 whereas cork had 4. The lack of reductive aromas and better preservation of esters creates more flavors, more fruit, more toast and brioche in sparkling wines. While the study ran for 5 years many of these differences were noted after 2.5 years. The unanswered question is what happens after 10 or 20 years?

by Dave Williams

With the recent popularity of pink wine, and explosion of new offerings coming on the market over the last 5-6 years, the question is – how do you select a good one? All too often wineries, negotiants or importers rush to meet marketplace demand without much regard to quality. Many wines have fallen victim to urgent capitalism, leaving a less than positive consumer experience. In fact, before we go any further I want to share a few traditional terms which more accurately identifies the origins of pink wine. In France “rosé” is the proper name. “Rosado” or “clarete” will come from Spain and in Italy “rosato” or “chiaretto” are used. In Abbruzzo, Italy it goes by “cerasuolo”.

Christopher Hoel, founder of Harper’s Club (an advisory firm that curates some of the world’s top wine collections) and sommelier, who established himself curating wine for clients, buys rosés based on color. He feels the lighter colored wines are higher in quality. It is generally regarded that the short maceration (crushed grape contact with juice) method is the best way to make quality pink wine. In this case the winemaker has a specific aroma and taste profile for the wine. Many are wonderfully refreshing, dry and redolent of flowers and summer fruits. Darker pink wines tend to be mass produced where maceration time is less closely controlled. Great rosé is about delicacy and finesse which lighter pink wines are more likely to deliver.

Another criteria he uses is country of origin, and “ABV” or alcohol level. France has a long history with rosé which always a good indicator. However, other countries and regions are remarkable as well. Dry wines will have an alcohol level of 12.5% or higher whereas wines with some level of residual sugar will be less than 12.5%, say 10-12%. (The old Rosé d’ Anjou comes to mind.) Good-to-great pink wines are almost always dry.

So the next time you are shopping for a pink wine and are overwhelmed by the selection, try this guide to see if you find something of your pleasure.

by Dave Williams

I would bet most of us are familiar with “new wine” because of George DeBoeuf and Beaujolais Nouveau which appears annually on the third Thursday of November. George certainly did a marvelous job as a promoter or extraordinary marketer. To the point where it has become cause for grand, and some say crazy, celebrations; and certainly increased revenue for wineries and retailers across the globe regardless of whether one likes Beaujolais Nouveau or not. In Japan one such ritual is for the consumers to bathe in giant pools of the stuff. Makes one wonder if they drink their way out of the pool. While George may have latched on to a wildly successful marketing ploy, he certainly has no claim of exclusivity or originality, as new wine has been made in the Old World for hundreds of years.

As far back as Medieval times wine makers traditionally first tasted their “new wines” around St. Martin’s Day (November 11). In Eastern Europe the Czeck Republic and Hungary also have such celebrations around wines called Svatomartinske’ Vino and Marton bora or wine of St. Martin, respectively. Not all are made via carbonic maceration, though most are. (Carbonic maceration is when harvested grapes are fermented in closed vats bathed in carbon dioxide prior to crushing, producing simple wines with low levels of tannins. These wines are quickly bottled and consumed with no intent for longevity.) In fact, the Czech Republic has quality standards for Svatomartinske’ which undergoes evaluation by the state wine making institute. In Hungary, Marton bora is strongly connected to goose dishes with goose feasts occurring throughout the country upon release.

All so called, “new wines” are produced from early harvested grape varieties. Gamay being the most well-known. However, in Central Europe Muller-Thurgau, Fruhroter Veltliner and Muskat Moravsky used to make white as well as rosé “new wines”. Unfortunately or fortunately, depending upon your opinion of these wines, most are unknown outside the local areas they are made. For example, the Gaillac appellation in Southwest France makes Gaillac Primeur and releases it on the same day as Beaujolais Nouveau. I would bet you have never heard of this new wine, let alone tasted it. “New wines” also appear in Austria, Italy and Spain during fall in the year of harvest although few if any are imported to the US. Released on October 30, Italy’s “vino novello” is probably the only one likely to find its’ way Stateside.

In summary, “new wines” bring energy and some excitement to the wine world. Celebrations occur after release for a few weeks then all is quickly forgotten, very ephemeral.