by Dave Williams
TE, The Inn at Leola Village 38 Deborah Drive, Route 23, Leola, PA 17540 (717)656-7002 www.theinnatleolavillage.com
Originally an Amish tobacco farm slated for demolition in 1999 to make way for a convenience store and automotive service center, it was—thankfully—magnificently renovated in rustic character with a mission to create a five-star resort. The locals thought it was a foolish endeavor and claimed it would happen only when pigs flew, which explains the many images, statues and figurines of winged or flying pigs adorning the property.
Today it has two restaurants, three acres of gardens, unique accommodations, event hospitality facilities and a spa. Osteria Avanti is a noteworthy, yet more conventional Italian restaurant, servicing the property with breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. However, it is TE that makes dining a truly grand celebration. Chef Calabrese wanted to create the ultimate expression of a formal Italian restaurant. Ultimate is no exaggeration! Your experience will be a journey of refined Italian cuisine worthy of the Forbes 5-Star and AAA 5 Diamonds rating. Dining is offered Friday and Saturday only and reservations are required, as is a jacket for the gentlemen. The menu consists of two basic offerings: a five-course prix-fixe or a nine-course degustation menu. Multiple choices for each course are standard, as are the chef’s amazing intermezzos between most courses. Wine can be purchased from the list of 450+ wines or you can select the sommelier’s pick of wine for each course. TE is luxurious entertainment with impeccable service for you and your mouth and soul that takes an evening (2.5-3.5 hours). In fact, the exchanges with the engaging staff enhanced the entire evening. It comes at a price, but worth every penny. The five-course menu is $129/person and $199 with wine paring. Degustation menu is $199 and $299 with wine paring. It is a dining experience to rival the finest in the world regardless of location. Be prepared to be impressed, I most certainly was and anticipate returning.
by Dave Williams
This year will be 33 years since several curious individuals came together to explore wine, armed simply with more questions than answers, but a hunger—or should I say thirst—to learn. Today we are an organization that regularly gathers to learn and explore the vast world of wine. Our future and success depend on you and others who have an interest in learning about wine. Speaking for myself, much of my wine knowledge has come from PWS events, which enhanced my appreciation of wine and significantly impacted my dining pleasure. One of the remarkable things about wine is that its pleasure accrues value when shared with someone else.
Over the years there have been a dedicated and revolving team of people who plan, prepare and execute our events. A great deal of thanks goes to those individuals. They do this out of passion, as there is no compensation other than the gratitude of smiling faces enjoying an event and the knowledge acquired.
I would invite your input on subjects and events you would like to see PWS present. Plus, I encourage you to invite your friends, family or business associates who have a curiosity about wine to attend an event. What we share is a pleasure, comradery and desire to learn. What we gain are friends and a deeper appreciation for one of life’s great pleasures.
by Averill Shepps
The PWS Bylaws require a change of executive officers after serving for three years. As I have served a three-year term, we just held an election at which time Dave Williams was chosen to take over as President. He has served ably on the Board and as Vice President. I will remain on the Board as Past President. As I leave, I want to remind you all of what Peter Weygandt said about us after speaking at the Chateauneuf-du-Pape tasting three years ago. He expressed his impressions of us beautifully.
“I had a most enjoyable time—being with such genuine wine lovers, so attentive, so involved in each wine, and enthusiastic – a wonderful feeling, and so rare to find these days. As Robert Parker once said to me – it is easier to find a great wine than it is to find people who truly appreciate great wine. You have such a group.”
Let us never lose that spirit! Part of it is you; part is the Board that works diligently to put on good events for you; part of it is past Board members who continue to help us out by pouring wines when asked, by helping with our PA X judging, by keeping up our Facebook page, etc. People will leave the Board, but as they do so they tell us they will continue doing what they have been doing for us. I know our members are outgoing and welcoming to new attendees so that they will feel comfortable. After all we all share a common, consuming interest—learning about wine. We are fortunate indeed to have such a group! May I leave you with a bit of trivia. The Friday night tasting group at the Lemoyne store (I call it the Pub) had a distinguished visitor last Friday. Governor Wolf was there!
by Averill Shepps
As I think about what to write this month, my memory goes back to the earlier years of PWS, back to when we were known as the Wine Society of Central Pennsylvania. Back when we started we were the only game in town. If you wanted to learn about wine, we were your answer. Now the wine specialty stores are having tastings! I recall my first wine society tasting and my surprise at hearing about events coming up. I wanted to attend all of them in order to increase my knowledge. Naturally some events were good, and some not so good, but there was never an event where I learned nothing. That is still true. In Science, a negative result in an experiment is still important as it gives you more information about what you are studying. Wine is much like that. You try wines made from a specific grape or from a certain country or wine area, even a specific vintage from a really good (or bad) year, and all those experiments blend together to increase your knowledge. In the early years of your pursuit, you are also learning about your taste buds and your nose. We are all unique so that what appeals to one person is not the same as another. When we vote for our favorite wine at the end of a tasting, most wines get at least one or two votes. Another huge plus for becoming part of PWS is that you meet people who share your passion for your favorite subject. To others, we are obsessed; to kindred souls we are a source of yet more knowledge and we can join our friends in enjoying wine more than once a month!
—by Averill Shepps
Late Fall is election time for your Wine Society. A Nomination Committee has begun work and will be announcing its results at our November Board meeting on Monday, November 12. The vote itself will take place at the December meeting on Monday, December 10. All meetings are held at the Harrisburg Hilton and begin at 6:30 p.m. You may order dinner from the room service menu and have it served just before the meeting. Board members may bring wines that we sample during the meeting. Nominations for any Board position may also be made by a Board member. You may attend the meeting, or you may send your nomination to the Committee Chair, Scott Casper, at 9 Spring Hill Lane, Elizabethtown, PA 17022 or email him at: email@example.com. Not only can any current member nominate another member for a Board position, s/he may also vote at the December meeting. Members have the right to attend any Board meeting; the dates are listed on the back of each Newsletter.
If any of you are considering joining the Board, we would love to hear from you. It means going to monthly meetings at the Hilton, helping with tastings, and thereby learning how to host events or perhaps perform another function for the Society. You will learn a lot more about wine and be working with some really dedicated people who love the subject. Talk to any Board member about what is involved and let us know of your interest.
–by Bill Beeson
Upper level at 7011 Allentown Blvd, Harrisburg PA 17112 Phone: 717-710-3731 Hours: Tues- Sat: 10am – 9pm; Sun: 11am – 7pm
Our area has seen a number of phở restaurants open recently, and we’ve been sampling them. Phở (pronounced “fuh”) is the national dish of Vietnam. It is a rich broth with rice noodles and your choice of a variety of meats, seafood, or vegetarian ingredients. Bean sprouts, Thai basil, scallions, jalapenos and lime are served on the side to top your order to your tastes. It is a full meal.
For lighter fare, appetizers consist of a variety of hot and cold Vietnamese rolls, most containing pork, as well as Bánh Mì or Vietnamese meat sandwiches (think Vietnamese sub). The menu fills out with meat and seafood entrees with rice vermicelli or white rice, and fried rice combos. An interesting variety of Vietnamese beverages are available. We didn’t sample any as we brought wine, of course.
I ordered the Tàu Hủ Cuon – Winter Rolls – fried tofu and vegetable cold rolls which are served with a delicious bean dipping sauce. I was very impressed with the fresh and complex flavors in this vegetarian roll – these were the best rolls of this style I’ve tasted anywhere. For my entrée I chose the Phở Vegetables. Some phở dishes I’ve tasted were somewhat bland, but not this one! The broth was extremely flavorful and the vegetables were fresh and crunchy. The added fried tofu was so good, I wished there was more (something to request next time). The Vietnamese vegetables provided some unusual, subtle and delectable flavors. Vietnamese food is distinct from Chinese, Thai and Cambodian, though some ingredients are shared. Lynne had the Gỏi Cuốn spring roll appetizer and the Cơm Chiên Đồ Biển – shrimp, salmon, crabmeat, shrimp balls & egg stir-fried rice. The spring rolls were crispy, fresh, and contained an unidentified interesting, unique spice combination to be enjoyed. The seafood rice had fresh garden ingredients and fresh seafood with several fish surprises not promised (cuttle fish and scallops); making it both interesting and tasty.
The shock of the evening was our check as we found prices to be very reasonable given the gustatory experience we both enjoyed. WHEN, not if you go; because you must go – this is a great find. We recommend bringing light whites and rosés which will not overwhelm the subtle, wonderful taste profiles in these dishes. Enjoy!
—by Averill Shepps
Just when you think you’ve seen everything, something new comes along. In this case it’s blue wine, not the Blue Nun wine that was popular in the 70’s, but blue-colored wine! Why? I suppose because it can be made. The vinification process uses both red and white grapes blended with anthrocyanin from the red grape skins and indigotine, an organic compound commonly used as a food dye. It was first made by a Spanish company called Gik and the Italian Blumond, but they both ran afoul of the wine labelling laws.
A new company has made a blue wine and calls it Vindigo, avoiding the laws, possibly because nowhere on the label is it called wine and because it has enough alcohol to be called wine . Blumond at 7% alcohol was rejected for that reason. According to Vindigo’s Facebook page, it is made from Chardonnay grapes filtered through red grape skins for the anthrocyanin. Flavors mentioned are cherry, raspberry, blackberry and passionfruit. No mention of the food coloring. Apparently the drink is very popular in some parts of southern France, so okay, it’s a non-serious holiday wine that looks pretty in the pictures as it is a lovely color, but not one that we usually drink.
Blue wine has received press attention in such magazines as the British Decanter, as well as the American Food and Wine and Wine and Spirits. Reuters has also covered it. Let’s see where this trend leads. I’m sure the story isn’t over, and if the wine proves to be serious, PWS will have to introduce it to you.
—by Dave Williams
316 Bridge St., New Cumberland, PA. 717 547-6250, www.zanellis.com T- Th: 11-9, F-Sat: 11-10
Apparently, it runs in their family and in their blood starting with immigrant grandparents from Northern Italy that started an olive oil and wine import business in NYC early 1900s – to parents that operated a grocery store and butcher shop outside the city. Now brother and sister have opened a bistro style restaurant and bakery in New Cumberland. Dan, who is the Head Chef after 20 years’ experience in Italian kitchens with his sister, Joan, the General Manager, are offering in-house made pastas, salads, appetizers, sandwiches, Stromboli, pizzas and desserts.
A nice selection of appetizers are available from bruschetta to flash-fried calamari to hand-breaded veggies. The roasted eggplant caprese was a delightful twist on the conventional caprese. Salads are nicely presented with the option of adding steak, chicken or shrimp to make a meal. Pastas are the feature with some time tested recipes and a few favorites Dan has acquired over the years. You also can compose your own pasta dish with a selection of sauces and add-ons. However, I suggest trying one of the regular menu items to get a taste for what the Zanellis offer. Mare e Monti, steak and shell fish in a tomato sauce over linguini, and squid ink pasta tossed with calamari in olive oil and garlic sauce were our selections. We left pleased and sated without room for dessert.
Zanelli’s is intended to be a neighborhood, family restaurant. It is a BYOB so come prepared. Reservations are accepted only for parties of 8 or more. Prices are quite reasonable. The Saturday we dined, music was offered by a local singer, guitar player that pleasantly complemented our experience. Enjoy.
— by Averill Shepps
I have written before but not recently, about one of my favorite wine books, Reading Between the Wines by Terry Theise. Terry is a poet and the use of language is important to him, so that the book is beautifully written. He helps the reader to look at wine differently.
I opened the book in anticipation of this column, and the first thing I saw was, “Have you ever tried to field the question, what kind of wine do you like?” I thought of many times when I have been asked exactly that. Pourers at wineries or wine shows ask it. At least they have a reason; they are trying to find out what to pour for you. I am asked it often because people know of my serious interest in wine. I assume they are after gems of wisdom or guidance on what to buy. I am asked it in social situations where the asker is just making conversation. I can go on. But my answer in each situation is different. I often answer it with “It depends” or “It varies”.
Thus, “It depends on what I am eating”. Sometimes I just say, “French” or “European”, just to get past the awkwardness of the question. Terry says he responded that he liked moderate wine, but while he had an idea of what he meant, the asker was flummoxed. At a winery they expect you to answer sweet or dry. I like my wine wet is an accurate answer to that query. And then they ask red or white? Again, it depends. Sometimes I say I like good wine. T he better it is the better I like it. We can all agree with that answer. I would enjoy hearing any of your responses to the question. Do let me know of any gems.
— by Chris Hammacher
“Sweet, rich-textured, flower-scented and smooth.” For many of us, this may cause us to think of sweet fruit-flavored wines, White Zinfandel, or even box wines just to name a few. We would not be wrong. What if I said those same characteristics also describe one of the most enjoyable wines in the world? Oh, and by the way, it is rare, sought after, revered and deliciously sweet.
Now, let us add the fact that the reason this wine is so well known and has those characteristics is not because the winemaker purposely adds sugar or infuses additional flavor, but rather it is due to a fungus that grows on the grapes. One question…would you care to drink a wine purposely made with fungus? The fungus is called Botrytis Cinerea, also more commonly known as “noble rot.”
The botrytis forms during mild misty evenings and then multiplies when the days become hot. The fungus does not convey a “rotten” taste to the grapes but instead it helps to release almost all the water from the grapes. By doing so, it leaves the grape skin container filled with sugar, acids, and flavor components. The small amount of juice that does remain is more concentrated than ever. The producers that choose to make this wine must wait for this process to occur and finish, then harvest immediately. Their window of opportunity is a very narrow one, since normally too much humid weather quickly follows and will turn the noble rot to grey rot, and all would be lost.
If all the stars align and growing conditions are optimal, the wine that is made from this botrytis is truly remarkable and has the potential to be one of the longest-living wines in the world, able to be cellared for nearly half a century. The two most well-known regions for these wines are Sauternes and Barsac, both in France. The crème de la crème, the pinnacle of these wines, quite literally, “the gold standard” is Chateau d’Yquem and it hails from Sauternes. It was given the title of Premier Cru Supérieur back in 1855 during the Classification of Bordeaux wines, the only Sauternes to this day to hold that title. However, there are many great producers of these wines at reasonable prices. I would encourage you to step outside your comfort zone and try one with appropriate food matches.